Honoring a Road Brother: My Untold Story with Chris McCandless
By Donald M. Bugden
In the early 1990s, I was a 17-year-old Army Reservist, living a double life on America's backroads. To the world, I was Don, a drifter in a well-organized 1966 VW Fastback, chasing leads with my father, a retired cop, in pursuit of Ted Kaczynski, the Unabomber—America's most wanted. But to Chris McCandless, I was "Rubbertramp," a nickname born of campfire debates and a friendship that shaped me. This is my story of our bond, our shared love for music and literature, and the hunt that intertwined our paths with a killer's shadow. It's a tribute to Chris, whose spark lit my way, even when I arrived too late to save him.
The Hitchhiker's Spark: November 1990
I met Chris in November 1990, his thumb out on Highway 95 near Bullhead City, Arizona. He was 23, wiry, with hazel eyes that burned like desert stars. His Datsun was gone, drowned in a July flash flood. I pulled over in my 1966 VW Fastback, its AM/FM radio rigged as a backup recorder to signal tribal police or FBI if my NASA-grade radio—hidden in the glovebox—was ever found. "Need a lift, kid?" I asked. He climbed in, all restless energy, calling himself "Alex."
We drove west, the Fastback's engine humming to Beatles' "Norwegian Wood." Chris pulled Walden from his pack, quoting Thoreau on simplicity. "Society's a trap, Don," he said. I smirked, "Trap's got wheels." At 17, I hid my enlistment, my radio crackling with Dad's FBI leads on Kaczynski, whose bombs had killed since '78. At a payphone, I'd whisper updates: "No hermit yet." Chris didn't know—he just saw a friend. At Jan Burres's camp, he teased, "Rubbertramp, pick a side!" We laughed, but the Unabomber's shadow loomed. I slipped him a jacket, thinking, This kid's gonna burn bright.
River Rhythms: April 1991
By spring '91, Chris was back from paddling the Colorado River to Mexico, sun-scorched and preaching Tolstoy at a Slab City campfire. I rolled into Yuma in the Fastback, AM/FM recorder silent, NASA radio buzzing with FBI chatter about a loner buying chemicals—Kaczynski's '85 Sacramento kill still fresh in their files. I kept my soldier's oath buried, playing the drifter for Chris. "Still on rubber, Don?" he jabbed. "Your leather-tramp bullshit won't outrun a bullet," I shot back.
We talked Górecki's Symphony No. 3, its sorrow soaring like his dreams. Over War and Peace, he railed against tech's grind. A drifter's tale of a "crazy-eyed loner" in Niland hit too close to Kaczynski's profile. I radioed: "Coordinates 33.1N, 114.6W." No dice, but Chris's words stuck. I drove him east, New Mexico's mesas blurring, Dylan's "The Times They Are A-Changin'" on the tape deck. At a payphone, I dodged his questions: "Just Dad worrying." I gave him beans, a compass—our friendship a rhythm of music and words, keeping him tethered to the earth.
Carthage Crossroads: October 1991
Fall '91 found Chris in Carthage, South Dakota, hauling grain for Wayne Westerberg. I pulled into town October 10 in the Fastback, AM/FM recorder ready if my NASA radio failed. The FBI was desperate—Kaczynski's bombs quiet since '87, but Midwest rumors of anti-tech rants echoed his rage. Payphone calls to Dad: "Chasing a manifesto whisper." My enlistment stayed secret, a weight I carried alone.
At Wayne's, Chris and I cracked beers, diving into The Brothers Karamazov. "Faith's a fire, Don," he said. "Road's a cage," I countered. Mahler's symphonies roared from a battered cassette, his fingers strumming air. A local mentioned a "Montana bomb preacher." My NASA radio hissed: "Lincoln lead, tribal backup." Chris didn't know—he was my road brother, not a lead. I slipped him a knife, cash for the cold. Our visits, music-soaked and book-lit, were his anchor. I was lucky to share them, to see his fire before Alaska called.
The Barn's Silent Promise: January 1992
January '92, Chris was in Slab City, eyes on Alaska. I rolled up January 15 in the Fastback, loaded with gear: flannel, boots, canned salmon, rice sacks—others carried weapons, not me. At 19, my enlistment chained me to drills, but the hunt owned me—Dad's voice on the NASA radio: "Helena hermit sighted." The AM/FM recorder stayed silent, my failsafe for tribal or FBI backup. Chris climbed in, and we tore east, Kansas plains swallowing us. Sibelius thundered from the tape deck, matching snow squalls. Over Tolstoy's Resurrection, he said, "You're my confessor, Don."
Near Emporia, January 28, an abandoned barn stood like a red ghost. I unloaded the gear: "For the north." We talked till dawn—Dylan's laments, London's wolves. "Don't be late," he grinned, hugging me fierce. I drove off, NASA radio crackling: "MT bound." The barn held our promise—friendship forged in music, literature, miles. Chris wasn't alone, not yet. I thought I'd see him again.
Late to the Stampede: April–September 1992
Chris hit Alaska April '92, dropped at the Stampede Trail by April 28, Bus 142 his refuge. I planned to meet him, Fastback aimed north, but Montana leads—Kaczynski's cabin whispers—delayed me. The NASA radio buzzed: "Lincoln surveil negative." Storms flooded the Teklanika, my enlistment drills stole days. By August, Chris starved, his journal a desperate scrawl—per Denali logs, he died around August 18. I reached Alaska September 7, too late, joining the recovery effort after hunters found him September 6. My NASA radio coordinated tribal and ranger teams; the AM/FM recorder stayed silent, no backup needed for a ghost.
Standing by Bus 142, clutching a Dylan tape, I saw Chris's grin in the snow. He loved music's howl, literature's truth. I was his road brother, but I failed him—late to the wild. Kaczynski fell in '96, my dad and I part of the net. But this story's for Chris, whose "Rubbertramp" taunts lit my path.